Thursday 17 July 2008

Peddars Way and North Norfolk Coast Footpath

Almost a year to the day our group of intrepid walkers set out on our 2008 long distance walk. We had hopefully learnt a few lessons from our previous years jaunt along the Ridgeway.
Day 1 - Thetord Dowers House Camp Site
I caught trains from Saxmundham - Lowestoft - Norwich - Thetford which got me there about midday. The walk was only 10 miles but the first few miles were along the busy main Diss road. I quickened my pace along here averaging over 4 mph just to hurry and get off onto more conducive roads and paths. A monor road led through the village of Rushford and then along to the start of the Peddars Way. It was a pleasure to see on the opposite side of the road a signpost pointing to Ivinghoe Beacon (106 miles) which is where we had started the previous year. There was only a couple of miles along the Ridgeway before I had to head through the woods on West Harling Heath in order to get to the Dower House camp site. Friendly family oriented site.
Day 2 - Dower House Camp Site to Watton Hare and Barrel
It was a cold damp night and the morning was full of mist. I am now determined to get a better sleeping bag than the cheap old synthetic one I have previously used. Tried to dry the tent out but the sun struggled in burning off the mist and so had to pack it wet. Met up with the rest of the boys where I had left the Peddars Way the previous day. It was good to see them all and spirits were high. The day was turning warm and sunny. Stopped off at Dog and Partridge in Sonebridge just before the pub opened. Martin had started eating a pasty whilst we waited in the pub garden. He was promptly ejected from the premesis by the pasty police for contravening pub policy! Arrived at Hare and Barrel, Watton in good time. Nice accommodation, pleasant staff. Good food. Good beer - Reverend James! Took a stroll into town and had a drink in another pub - pretty much a dive - selling Adnams bitter which was not a very good pint.
Day 3 - Watton to Castle Acre
Visited St Andres church in Cressingham - a curious building that was half intact and half ruin. Stopped off at The Blue Lion, North Pickenham - excellent beer though the name of the brew/brewery escapes me - so good we had to have a couple of pints each! A lot of long straight paths through to Castle Acre but well worth it when we got there. A smashing little village with an old priory and a castle so there was plenty to investigate. Stayed over at the Old Red Lion - an old pub turned into a hostel. A communual dormitory with only us staying in it. Another guest, a cyclist was supposedly there but failed to return from his days outings. Found I had lost my house keys when I changed trousers to go out for the evening - luckily a call to the Hare and Barrel in Watton had found them in their car park - they offered to send them through to me by recorded delevery - a very pleasing gesture. Had dinner in The Ostrich Inn - fascinating pub, good food and Abbot Ale!
Day 4 - Castle Acre to Heacham
Despite much phoning and searching the only accommodation we could locate for this days walk was at Heacham - this effectively took us off the Peddars way but would enable us to walk the coast up to Hunstanton. It was a good 18 miles of long straight tracks. A pretty uneventful and by the time we reached Sedgeford where we had to head out to Heacham we were all pretty knackered. Steve W was suffering badly from blistered feet.
Day 5 Heacham to Brancaster
Steve W had decided to quit the walk as his feet were in such a bad state. He did accompany us up to Hunstanton but then caught a bus whilst the remaining three of us carried on to the North Norfolk Coast path. Stopped off in Old Hunstanton which I think was called something like The Mariners - excellent real ale. We did attempt to go to the White Horse in Home but found it was being refurbished after being gutted by fire. Still managed to have drinks at both Thornham and Titchwell in order to escape from the rain! Nothing special - these hostelries were reconditioned old pubs for modern-day holiday makers - sparse and minimalist decoration - personally I like a traditional styled pub. Brancaster thankfully had one of these where we were due to stay - The Ship Inn - good beer (Abott Ale), basic pub grub, decent rooms and a landlord who wanted to cater for the locals rather than the city visitors.
Day 6 - Brancaster to Wells
There had been quite a bit of rain the previous evening and despite the day being dry the overgrown footpath through the marshes to Burnham Ovary Staithe ended up with soaked trousers and boots. Met up with Gary T at Wells camped overnight at Mill Farm.
Day 7 - Wells to Weybourne
This was a very long day - although we knew it was supposed to be a good 18 miles as we did not know exactly where the camp site was it put on a couple of extra miles plus having to walk along the shingle from Cley to Weybourne left us all feeling shattered. Lunchtime we found a lovely pub called the Kings Arms in Blakeney which offered Woodfords Wherry straight from teh barrel - absolutely delicious! Also called into a pub in Cley but once again this was a refurbished minimalist place that lacked the pub atmosphere. When we arrived at Weybourne a couple in a caravan offered us tea/beer which was a very welcome gift after such a long day.
Day 8 Weybourne to Cromer
The final day began with heavy rain. It was clear that there was going to be no let up in this so we got the tents packed away as quickly as possible in the wet and set off in full waterproofs. By the time we arrived at a tea shop in Sheringham we were soaked through. But cups of tea and scones with jam and cream was anough to revive our spirits. The walk inland from Sheringham to Cromer was met with rivers of water flowing down what was supposed to be footpaths. At one point we had to negotiate 50 yards of flood. With this being the last day and with knowledge that a hotel room awaited at the end of it then spirits kept up and the final walk onto Cromer pier was met witha sense of achievement.

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